"Shockumentary" Inspires Cosmetic Reform

Congress and the cosmetics industry seem to agree on at least one thing.  Both are calling for tighter regulation of the chemicals used in cosmetics and other personal care products, and are concerned regarding the accusation of possible use of carcinogens and other toxic ingredients.

Based in Washington, D.C., the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) is the leading national trade association representing the global cosmetic and personal care products industry.

PCPC released its own plan for regulation in mid-July, which included requiring all cosmetics manufacturing facilities to register with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, to disclose all product ingredients to the FDA, and to report any serious adverse events to the agency. It also would require the FDA to establish safe levels for trace constituents in cosmetic ingredients and products.

Accusations stemming from the seven-minute Story of Cosmetics video, says “fewer than 20% of chemicals in cosmetics have been assessed by the industry's safety panel.” The video is co-produced by The Story of Stuff Project, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and Free Range Studios.

"The FDA doesn't even assess the safety of personal care products, or their ingredients," says video narrator Annie Leonard.  "Not all of these chemicals are dangerous. But we know that many are. Some are carcinogens – that means they can cause cancer. Others are neurotoxins and reproductive toxins."

In a statement by Spokeswoman Kathleen Dezio, PCPC, regarding The Story of Cosmetics video, she says, “The content in this harsh and unscientific ‘shockumentary – genre’ video bears no relationship to the ‘real’ story of cosmetics.  Our industry employs hundreds of men and women who have devoted their careers to substantiating the safety of cosmetic products.  This video is an unfortunate attempt to generate fear about an alleged public health risk from cosmetics that is unwarranted.  It is repugnant to suggest that cosmetic companies would manufacture, and the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) would allow them to market, products that are dangerous or contain toxins that cause cancer or any other disease.  It is absurd to suggest that the men and women in our industry would market products that could cause harm to themselves and their families."
 
In Congress, Rep. Jan Schakowsky (D-Ill.) introduced a bill on Tuesday calling for cosmetics makers to register with the federal government and for larger cosmetics firms to pay user fees to enforce the regulation. The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 would require all ingredients in a cosmetic product to be listed on the product's label and would give the Secretary of Health and Human Services two years to develop a list of prohibited or restricted ingredients.

Cosmetics manufacturers would be required to notify the federal government of consumers who reported experiencing adverse health effects from their cosmetics and to use alternatives to animal testing of products.

PCPC President and CEO Lezlee Westine, said in a statement that although cosmetics "remain among the safest in the marketplace ... Nonetheless, we believe it is time to develop a more contemporary approach that includes a greater federal regulatory role ... Our consumers deserve multiple layers of protection and transparency."

Under the U.S. Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), it is a federal crime to market an unsafe cosmetic product in the United States.  The marketing of an unsafe cosmetic product carries significant consequences.  FDA has clear and abundant legal authority to regulate the safety of cosmetic products including authority to:  ban or restrict ingredients for safety reasons, enter and inspect manufacturing facilities, issue warning letters, seize unsafe or misbranded products, prohibit unlawful activities, and prosecute and jail violators.
 
“Safety substantiation of ingredients, either by manufacturers or raw material suppliers, is based on a rigorous scientific safety process that includes studies of closely related substances, utilizing computer modeling to predict potential toxicity, in-vitro testing, and human product safety experiences,” states Dezio.
 
Furthermore, “safety is determined on the basis of proven principles of risk assessment.  There are four main components in science-based safety assessment that are well documented by the National Academy of Sciences, the Society of Toxicology and numerous government agencies around the world. Manufacturers consider these components -- hazard identification, dose response, exposure assessment and risk characterization -- in their safety assessments.  During the safety assessment process, companies also consider exposure from other sources over the course of a person’s lifetime.”

Perhaps the most insulting attack in the video regarding the cosmetic industry is, “the cheap attack in the video on industry philanthropy and the efforts of companies to champion various women's health-related causes is offensive.  The personal care products industry gives more than $200 million in contributions to charitable causes each year, an amount almost twice that of any other industry in the manufacturing sector.  In fact, through its Look Good…Feel Better program, the industry has helped 700,000 women in the U.S. overcome the appearance-related side effects of cancer treatment.”

Dezio concludes, “The ‘real’ story of cosmetics is that of an industry with a proven, lengthy track record of responsibility and safety and a strong commitment to making the lives of consumers better.”

Laura Lamp King